February

Truly seasonal food in February is perhaps not as the month itself seems. Grey skies, lots of wind, rain or snow hardly conjure a romantic picture, but Valentine's Day gives an opportunity to explore some interesting and more unusual foods.

Shellfish have always been considered to contain some properties that are beneficial to one's love life. It's probably more down to their unusual forms, than the actual amount of minerals and trace elements they contain. Fresh oysters however do have high concentrations of zinc and other minerals, and eaten raw there is no more complete and sensual food that gives an immediate boost to protein levels and a feeling of well-being. Oysters and mussels are perfect for sharing in a romantic meal on Valentine's Night.

Welsh Oysters

Wales has several oyster beds at Swansea Bay, Milford Haven and the Menai Straits, and unfortunately at present only the latter is in production. However the quality of oysters from the same pure clean water that produces Halen Mon Sea Salt is superb. They are very full-in-the-shell, or well-fished, and have firm mineral savoured flesh. Menai Oysters operate the beds at Brynsiencyn, with a land based purification system close by. Here they also cleanse mussels that are of the same high quality. They supply by mail order. The tip is to order oysters, then some mussels on the same delivery, so the delivery cost of these is negligible.

To open an oyster: hold it on a cloth on a board, cup shell down, with the hinge towards you, representing 6 o'clock. At 3 o'clock gently wriggle the oyster knife between the top and bottom shell until it goes through. Work it back and for to cut through the muscle that holds the two shells together, then pull off the top shell. Cut under the muscle to loosen. This can be made easier by putting the oysters, 3 at a time, into the microwave for 30 seconds (depending on power), so the shells gape slightly making it easy to get the knife in. Chill oysters well until eaten.

Always serve oysters well-chilled. Ideally put onto a bed of crushed ice so they remain cold until each is eaten. It also looks good. Serve with big wedges of lemon, shallot vinegar, paprika, and Tabasco sauce.

Serve with small forks so they can be lifted from shell; some prefer this to downing them directly from the shell. Always savour all the juice.

Some people do not find raw oysters attractive, but will take them cooked. Always cook them lightly (as with all shellfish) as they are delicate-fleshed and will shrivel and toughen when overcooked.

Oysters should be cooked simply to retain their flavour as prominent in the dish. They can be simply grilled topped with herb butter or cream cheese as Pantysgawn, or cream cheese flavoured with herbs, spices, or flavourings as Tabasco or pepper sauce, black olive puree, sun dried tomato puree or pesto sauce.

They can be quickly pan fried in butter, perhaps in finely chopped shallots, with added herbs as coriander or parsley. They can be rolled in flour, egg and breadcrumbs and fried in butter or oil until crisp as scampi.

Menai Oysters,
Talybontbach,
Llanfaiepwll
Angelsey.
Mrs Brenda Krijnen
Tel: 01248 430878
Fax: 01248 450878
Email: theoysterman@eidosnet.co.uk

Real mutton is a rarity in this age, but was once one of the prides of great British cooking. When a lamb grows up, if it has a chance, by two years old the meat acquires a rich flavour and a dark, closer texture. Flavour is derived from the grazing. The upland pasture in Mid Wales is ideal, with acres of organic land for the sheep to roam. Graig Farm near Llandrindod Wells (and associate organic farms) rear mutton in the time honoured way. At two years they are dispatched in a local abattoir and hung for seven to fourteen days for the meat to mature. A leg has to be cooked slowly for 4 - 6 hours, but the close texture and deep flavour is truly outstanding.

Graig farm organics have been providing a special service for over a decade. It was the vision of Bob Kennard and his family to make his beautiful farm a centre for organic marketing, drawing from neighbouring farms, and from organic supplies across the globe. Their range now takes in fish from the South Atlantic, organic wine, ready prepared meals and pates, and baby food! They have won a string of accolades in recent years including BBC4 Food Programme 'Campaigner of the Year'. Most recently they won a Gold in the True Taste Welsh Food Awards 2002.

Graig Farm Organics supply Fresh and Wild in London and by mail order. For local stockists see their website www.graigfarm.co.uk

Graig Farm, Dolau, Llandrindod Wells, Powys LD1 5TL
Bob Kennard
Tel: 01597 851655
Fax: 01597 851991
Email: sales@graigfarm.co.uk

Roast leg of mutton with laver sauce

Mutton is an ideal meat for winter dishes. It is very different from the sweet fragrance of young lamb. The flavour on the plate is incredible, meaty with the complexity of herbs and vegetation from hill pastures in a richness akin to a well matured great Burgundy wine. Serve the sauce as described by George Borrow, the Welsh-speaking English scholar, who toured Wales the summer of 1854. His accounts of meals are vivid; while staying near Llangollen he tasted mutton from the nearby Berwyn mountains - 'moor mutton from the Berwyns, with piping hot laver sauce'.

Serves 4

Ingredients

Half a leg of mutton about 1.5 kilos
12 shallots - whole
8 garlic cloves - unpeeled
1 large onion cut into 8 chunks
300ml dry cider (Ralph's organic dry cider is best, from same area)
Halen Mon sea salt and freshly milled pepper
200ml meat or vegetable stock
Juice and zest of half an orange
50ml tomato juice
100g laverbread

Method

Heat oven to maximum Gas mk 9, 240C, 475F

Lightly oil meat, place in roasting tray and cook for 30 minutes. Add the shallots, garlic and onion, coat with fat from meat and baste meat. Cook a further 10 minutes, then season generously, and add half the cider. Cover meat with a loose tent of foil, turn oven to Mark 2, 120C, 250F, and cook for 4 hours. Using 2 wooden spoons, carefully remove meat to a hot carving dish, with the shallots, garlic and half the onions, and return to oven, and prop door slightly open with a wooden spoon; this will allow the meat to set for half an hour while making a sauce and cooking vegetables.

Pour off any fat and deglaze the pan on a medium heat with remaining cider, squashing the onion well and dissolving all the caramelised bits. Reduce to half then add the stock and cook for several minutes briskly to reduce by a half. Strain into a saucepan, and add tomato juice, orange and zest. Heat well and check consistency and seasoning. Add laverbread, mixing well, then keep warm.

Carve the meat across the width of the leg, and serve immediately with roasted shallots garlic and onion, the sauce, potatoes and green vegetables.

Cheese of the month

Pant Mawr Smoked Cerwyn

This cheese recently won a gold at the British Cheese Awards.

From a beautiful area in the Preseli Mountains in north Pembrokeshire, Cerwyn is a soft cow's milk cheese with a washed rind. This gives extra depth of flavour as the cheese matures. It has a rich, creamy texture and lively mature flavour. The smoked variety is a good winter cheese - it is lightly smoked not to overpower, and the flavour just penetrates the creaminess. It must be served at room temperature, and is best stored in a larder not in the fridge, unless it is to be stored for longer than a few days. Always wrap it well in cling film and the flavour will cross to other foods.

Smoked Cerwyn (450 g size) can be baked whole in a moderate oven for fifteen minutes and served oozing hot with crusty bread and vegetable batons (crudités) as a starter for a party.

Smoked Cerwyn is delicious with a full-bodied fruity wine, perfect for New World red wine as Shiraz and Cabernet-Merlot blends.

D H and C M Jennings, Pant Mawr Farm, Rosebush, Pembrokeshire SA66 7QU
Tel/fax: 01437 532627
Email: pantmawr-jennings@hotmail.com

Welsh Food Focus - February